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There's a counter evolution going on.

Countertops are becoming a kitchen focal point, a decorative punch that doubles as a functional work surface. And while granite remains the surface of desire for many homeowners, other materials such as recycled glass, quartzite and even wood are topping the counters of the trendiest kitchens.

Countertops are ''where a lot of the design is happening today. Ten years ago it was all about the cabinets,'' said Lyn Peterson, a Scarsdale, N.Y., interior designer who raises style aspirations with her new book, Real Life Kitchens.

This is where function and form collide. Countertops not only have to look good, but they also have to stand up to all manner of abuse and everyday wear.

For that reason, it's important to balance functionality, durability and looks when you're choosing a countertop material, said Bob Kieft, one of the partners in Kitchen Design Group in Bath Township. And don't forget cost: That to-die-for rare granite just might put your kitchen renovation budget out of reach, whereas a more common type will keep costs in check.

Then there's what Peterson calls the ''it'' factor, the quality that draws you to a particular material. Countertops have the greatest visual impact of all kitchen surfaces, so you should choose a material that pleases your senses, Peterson said in an e-mail interview. ''Without beauty, there is no design and certainly no 'joy in cooking,''' she said.

Here's a look at some of the choices available:

Plastic laminate

Affordable and easily available, plastic laminate is the most common countertop material.

A laminate countertop is made by gluing a thin sheet of plastic to a base of medium-density fiberboard, particleboard or a similar material. It ranges in price and quality from cheap, prefabricated slabs sold at home centers to custom countertops with elaborate edge treatments. You can even buy laminate countertops with integrated,
lipless sinks, but the price will rival solid-surface materials such as Corian, said Betty Nairn, general manager of Cabinet-S-Top in Medina County's Granger Township.

Laminate has its limitations, principally in its durability. It will scratch, and hot pans will damage it. What's more, the seams need to be sealed so water doesn't get in and warp the base, Nairn said — and just as importantly, those seals need to be maintained.

On the plus side, laminate comes in a huge array of colors and designs. It's also lightweight, Nairn noted, making it relatively easy to install and eventually remove. It's easy to clean with soap and water, but you can't use abrasives or harsh chemicals on it, she said.

Granite

Granite has been a popular countertop choice for 15 or 20 years, said Barbara Dillick, another of the Kitchen Design Group partners. With so many more quarries producing granite today, it's becoming increasingly affordable and available, she said.

Because granite is stone, it's ''pretty much indestructible,'' Dillick said. Like all stones, it can take the heat from hot pans set right on top of it. You can have sealers applied in the fabrication process that practically eliminate the problem of stains seeping into the porous stone, she said, and there's no need to reseal periodically. What's more, granite is a natural material, Nairn noted — a plus for ecologically minded consumers.

The color and texture of granite can vary quite a bit, even when it comes from the same quarry, so Kieft recommended against choosing granite from just a sample. Instead, ask to see the slab that will be used to create your countertop.

Some granites are softer than others, which means they're more apt to absorb stains, Dillick said. Soft granites usually have webbing glued to the back for stability in shipping, she said.

And some granite is being imported from China in ready-cut slabs, which require more seams when the countertops are installed, Dillick said. Those granites are usually thinner (three-quarters of an inch thick as opposed to 11/4 for most granite) and are, therefore, less strong, she said.

Granite that's been sealed is easy to clean, although stains that are absorbed into the stone and don't eventually disappear need to be removed with a poultice, Dillick said.

You can expect to pay around $50 a square foot for the most basic granite countertop, with the cost rising substantially from there for uncommon granites, fancy designs or complicated installations.

All the kitchen designers hesitated to provide a square-foot cost for countertop materials, because so many factors, including the style, the edge treatments and the complexity of the installation, figure into the price. In fact, Kieft urged consumers to be wary of companies that advertise prices, because fabrication costs might not be included, he said.

Solid surface

Solid-surface countertops — Corian is probably the best-known type — are made from polymer or acrylic resin that's nonporous and tough. As its name implies, the countertop is a solid piece of the material with the same color throughout. It won't stain permanently or absorb bacteria, and it's easy to renew, making it a good choice for hard-working kitchens.

Unlike many countertop materials, solid-surface countertops have no visible seams. The material also lends itself well to being shaped into curves and intricate patterns, so the design possibilities are great, Kieft said.

''If there's something that can be done with wood, it can be done with Corian,'' he said.

Solid-surface countertops will scratch, Kieft said, but scratches can be buffed out with a Scotch-Brite scrubbing pad. And although the material is heat resistant, hot pans shouldn't be placed on it directly, Nairn said.

Figure to spend roughly what you would for granite, the kitchen designers said.

Quartz

This relative newcomer is a manufactured material made by combining bits of quartz with binders and colorants. It's sometimes called engineered stone and is marketed under names including Caesarstone, Zodiaq, Silestone and Viatera.

Quartz countertops have the look of a fine-grained stone and can resemble marble, granite or concrete. They have all the qualities of granite without the maintenance, Nairn said. And like solid-surface countertops, they have no visible seams.

One type of quartz countertop, Silestone, even contains Microban protection to inhibit the growth of bacteria and other microbes.

Quartz has a large color palette, but there's not much choice in patterns, Nairn noted. What's more, light can fade it, she said.

Quartz is slightly more costly than solid-surface materials — about 2 to 5 percent higher, Kieft said.

Wood

Wood is emerging as a popular countertop choice in upscale kitchens, Kieft said. But think beyond maple butcher block. Many of the woods being used today are exotic species such as wenge, a dark brown wood with darker veining, and zebra wood, with its dramatic contrasting stripes.

Wood is warm both in appearance and to the touch, and it's quieter than other surfaces. You won't hear a ringing sound when you set a glass on wood, Kieft noted.

Wood can be used for working surfaces, but expect it to wear, he said. Peterson raised concern over bacteria and said she wouldn't use it for a food-preparation surface.

Many people choose wood instead for accent countertops, such as surfaces used primarily for eating or display. One good thing: It can be sanded and renewed time and again, Kieft said.

Nairn considers a wood countertop ''an heirloom piece'' that takes on a patina from use and age. Depending on the type and thickness of the wood, its cost can exceed granite, she and Kieft said.

Concrete

Concrete countertops are stylized and artsy, a sort of industrial-chic accent for an upscale kitchen.

Its appeal is largely in its imperfection. With its pronounced seams and tendency to develop fine cracks over time, it is to polished granite what a well-worn bomber jacket is to a cashmere topcoat.

What's fun about concrete is its range of vibrant colors and its possibilities for creativity. Kitchen Design Group, for example, displays a counter with a subtly textured, leatherlike surface and a single leaf imprinted in the concrete.

Concrete has some drawbacks, however: It's prone to scratching, it can break, it can't hold hot things and it's pricey — as much as 30 percent higher than some granites, Kieft said, although Nairn said the prices are roughly equal.

Other materials

Some other countertop choices:

Soapstone: This rustic, chalky-feeling stone fits in with both primitive country and contemporary looks. It's soft and prone to scratching and wear, so it's often paired with a more durable countertop material on the harder-working surfaces.

Quartzite: The hardest stone available, it has come into use in kitchens only recently, Peterson said. It's usually paler in color than granite, with soft markings. Because it's porous, it must be sealed regularly.

Marble: This stone is porous and fractures easily because of its veining, so Dillick generally doesn't recommended it for kitchens. It is, however, a good surface for rolling dough because it stays cold to the touch, she said.

Glass: Glass is more decorative than functional in the kitchen, Kieft said, so it's probably a better choice as an accent. It will scratch, but it shouldn't break if it's thick enough, he said. When the underside is painted, the effect is highly stylized and can be almost gemlike.

Recycled glass: Chips of recycled glass bottles are embedded in concrete to create a product that resembles terrazzo. The colors are limited, but the glass chips give the material an unusual dimension. Nairn sells a version called IceStone that she describes as costly, but ''to die for.''
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