sealing venetian gold

matheller · 10-27-2007, 06:31 PM

Hi,

I just sealed Venetian gold with sprint antidrop

Quote:

Antidrop Water & Oil Proof Protector
This solvent based product protects, impregnates, waterproofs and oilproofs marbles, stones & granites. Antidrop has been specially designed to protect stony materials from moisture & smog in outdoor application and from oil, grease, staining & kitchen fumes in indoor applications. Easily penetrates the materials it protects, leaving no surface film; provides long-lasting protection outdoors; non yellowing; UV stabilized, excellent resistance to acid rains; non toxic when dry; antisticking and antistatic. leaves the base permanently clean. Yield: high porosity materials 3-5sq.ml; medium porosity materials 6-9sq.ml; low porosity materials 10-13sq.ml.

and the granite still does get darker if you let water sit on it. It does take it longer to darken up but still. I even put 3 coats of sealer on it. Maybe this antidrop sealer is the problem. Any help. Thanks

Huligar · 10-27-2007, 07:37 PM

I would go with

Quote:

Suitable for aging all types of marbles, travertine's, stones, granites and agglomerates. Used to obtain a “wet” effect both for indoor and outdoor application. We suggest to apply on surfaces flamed, rough or sanded. Ager is also suitable to protect surfaces against oil and water. The product does not change color when exposed to the sun.

Instructions for use

The product must be evenly applied on dry and clean surfaces. The presence of water, dust or dirt may effect the uniformity of the surface.
We suggest spreading the product using a sponge or cloth. Then buff the surfaces immediately with a clean cloth. Any excess of AGER creates superficial glossy and sticky films, so the excess must be removed immediately after application. For floor application, wait 24 hours before walking on the surface. Close cans tight after each use.

and or

Quote:

Color enhancer sealer for exotic stones. Suitable to darken up the color of exotic resined granite. Ager tiger will match the color of the lighter edge with the surface in just one or two applications.

cheesedog · 10-27-2007, 10:11 PM

Huligar, i dont know if that where he was going with this. its getting darker, means there is penetration. maybe it wasnt applied correctly. can you tell us exaclty how it was applied?

the stuff Huligar is recommending will perminently darken the stone and seal it.

Huligar · 10-27-2007, 10:56 PM

Thanks dog. I misread the post.

Matheller here is what my suggestion would do.

Before

After

this will make the whole counter look like the wet area, so you will never see those wet ring again. If you want to keep the stone the same color, you can use one of the many proving sealers on the market.

Water and oil proof for marble. Suitable for polished and rough surfaces. Recommended for indoor and outdoor application. Skudo for marble works on the surface of materials. This prevents liquids from penetrating but remains permeable to vapors. This keeps the marble characteristics unchanged.

and or

TouchstoneTM Sealer 10 is a no-sheen, natural look, solvent based penetrating sealer formulated to provide maximum stain protection.

* Recommended for use on all natural stone
* Equally effective for interior or exterior applications
* May be used as a pre-grout sealer
* Allows moisture vapor transmission
* Last up to 10 years

matheller · 10-28-2007, 12:43 AM

I take it nobody here has any pros or cons to say about sprint antidrop as it seems like nobody here has used it before.

For applications the bottle says :On very absorbent materials, make two or three coats, allowing the solvent to flash off between applications. When the surface is perfectly dry (30-60 minutes) take off the excess of product with a soft cloth soaked with antidrop, rubbing up to the achievement of a uniform aspect.

Pretty straight forward and that is what I did. Used a brush to apply, by the time I was at the end of the stone in application the beginning had already flashed of so I just went back to the start and reapplied. Did that three times. After that I gave it some time to dry some as stated in the instructions, perhaps 30 minutes, and then I took a terry towel added some antidrop to the towel and removed the excess film of sprint antidrop. Thanks

Topshop · 10-29-2007, 12:07 PM

I have never seen that stuff before but I am no sealer expert either. I just use Stonetech bulletproofer. I brush it on - let it sit to almost dry then brush more on and buff off extra with a wool bonnet. No complaints yet.

I thought most Venetian gold was coming with resin now anyway. The stuff I installed a few weeks ago barely took in any sealer - it was resined.

NuTech Floor Pro · 10-29-2007, 10:15 PM

Topshop,

I hear from a very reliable source that StoneTech has gone south since Dupont Aquiring it and converting most of the products to be manufactured with Dupont's raw materials. I personally liked the Bulletproof also, but never used it much and definitely not in a long time.

As far as the sealer here in question, I would suggest to you that there are several very good sealers on the market (mostly flouro chemical variety) that do allow a certain amount of moisture or water to pass but are far superior in repellency of thicker contaminates such as oils. I'm always more comfortable with no absorbency, however you can't beat science.

etinul · 10-30-2007, 01:00 AM

wow....I was under the impression that bulletproof was one of the better sealers on the market. What sealers are you reffering to that are superior to bulletproof?

matheller · 10-30-2007, 02:01 AM

Well, etinul just asked the question for me. Of course I am referring to a kitchen environment though. Thanks

NuTech Floor Pro · 10-30-2007, 02:56 AM

I'm sorry, I was not trying to say superior to bulletproof necessarily. Again, last I used bulletproof by a customers request, I thought it was a great sealer for medium density stuff. I simply never adopted much from the StoneTech line and now from what I hear, they have lost a lot of quality as are being shunned by some of their own "former" people.

All I was trying to say is that there are sealers that outwardly do NOT bead up for water, however provide great protection from contaminates that are inherently "thicker" than water. The water test is not really a very good test for the quality of a sealer. The flouro chemical type sealers are prone to react this way - as they do not produce such a strong surface tension as the silicone solvents do. This surface tension created is a false positive for the ability of a sealer - it is nothing more than oil does not mix with water. Water-based flouro checmical sealers cannot produce such a reaction, yet are generally more resistant and more durable in the long run. Of course there are those that disagree as these sealers have not been around long enough to do extensive testing.