Stone dry grouting method...using no water....This method uses unsanded grout,mixed in the usual way, not too wet, and no water in clean up. It also works best on honed stone that is more on the hard side, such as travertine,but can be done to polished stone if you're careful, and use a white pad, that is softer, otherwise you may scratch the stone. It is also advisable to preseal your softer more porous stones with an impregnating sealer to avoid a (picture frame) of the stone due to it absorbing the pigment of the grout around it's edges at the grout joint. This method is utilized when a perfectly flat joint is desired. A flat joint is critical in stone work to ensure the whole job looks flat, disguising any lippage, and making clean up in the future much easier so the joint doesn't harbor and trap dirt...I put the grout in the joints as usual, except i do it twice, i apply it with a float in this instance let it sink after a few minutes,
then appply the grout again, making sure i go across the joint, and leaving an excess of grout on the face, i overfill the joint, and avoid air pockets, and voids. If you do find you have voids they can be repaired after final clean up.This method can also be used by applying the grout with a flat piece of plastic similar to the type you get when you buy a Bondo patching kit.When you apply the grout this way you only apply it once, and use a slapping motion to force it into the joint,
once again leaving an excess on the face of the stone,the excess is important because the grout will shrink, and defeat the purpose of the whole process.You'll let this floor dry when you've finished grouting maybe overnight if the weather isn't severely hot.You don't want to begin sanding it off if it's still the slightest bit wet, it will darken severely wherever the grout is still wet! You may be able to add dry powder to the area and blend it into the wet grout to lighten it back up, but i don't guarantee this will always work.You want the grout completely dried out, and turned to it's color when it's dry in the bag, but you don't want it to reach it's full hardness,this makes it difficult to remove.
I use a painters sanding block that has been used a little to take the coarseness off, but you can also use a black scrubby pad, as pictured, or a white one, and also a hand machine at a slow speed(under 1000 rpm)I also picture a small piece of wood, a good tool to use to remove hardened grout from stone to avoid scratching the stone. I don't use the dry grouting technique on vertical surfaces where you don't notice the depressed joints as much, such as a tub skirt.I hope this clears up this particular grout method for you more skilled DIYers.I caution you to be careful, and experiment a little before undertaking a large project, this is a very much feel as you go technique, and does require some expertise in tiling to get perfect.You can tell by the length of this one grouting technique, just how important and difficult these procedures are.......Good Luck,
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